Eugi Gufo's siteEugi Gufo

In Salò, while I was calmly walking along the lakeside promenade among numerous tourists—foreigners and otherwise—I overheard a couple of locals, apparently both over sixty, talking to each other.
«And of course, you just can’t stand that association anymore,» he said to her.
In a way, I can understand him: I too would prefer my own town to be appreciated for some more glorious historical episode or for universally recognised cultural features. But reality is what it is. In 2014, that historical association complained about by the local gentleman is still the only thing that distinguishes (and makes famous) the town of Salò from many other beautiful places in northern Italy. If it did not exist, I do not know if—or when—I would ever have gone there. And I think the same applies to a large proportion of tourists who plan their travels by listening not only to their wallets. Consequently, I am not even sure the town would be equally beautiful and well maintained.

* * *
Is there a tourist who has not taken a photo like this in Salò? Is there a single printed or online publication that does not contain it? Obviously not.

But only I will show you from where it is taken. It is taken from this pedestrian walkway, which allows part of the shoreline to be used as a small landing for boats.

I could go on forever posting views of the lake, but in order not to bore you too much, I will stop with this one:

If we go left, at a certain point we see the gate of a private villa abruptly interrupting the lakeside promenade. I believe it opens onto one of the most expensive plots of land in Italy.


We will certainly go in the opposite direction as well, but first let us see something in town. The historic centre is pleasant and well kept, but not exceptional.

I did not find any element of architecture or art in front of which I felt like exclaiming something positive.

The local cathedral (which I found closed) is perhaps the least interesting historic building.

The monuments of Salò did not strike me as being of any particular artistic importance.

So let us make do with small but interesting details. To notice them, it is enough to look a little higher than usual.

Even what remains of the historic shop grilles (strangely always only the curved upper part) is often pleasant to look at.

Some historic commercial premises, however, seem to have been abandoned for years; by now even their signs are illegible.

Around the historic centre one can still see the ancient drinking-water wells. After all, coastal waters have never been particularly clean near inhabited centres. Now that water arrives directly into homes, all the wells in Salò are covered—but each in a different way.

At the time of my visit, all cultural spaces were already closed for holidays. Taking advantage of this break, some ignoramus decided to use the number zero instead of the letter O and the minutes symbol instead of accents.

For all those who prefer to walk with their heads down, one museum has installed a special sign.

But one cannot live on culture alone; one must also eat. Salò is now a tourist destination, so one of the most flourishing sectors of its economy is catering. In fact, I had the impression that the density of restaurants and bars per square metre exceeds that of residents. Some establishments have rather vulgar signs, but it does not matter: normal competitors are plentiful.
[In brackets: one of the customers of the place on the right is kindly showing you how NOT to hold a handbag while eating outdoors.]

Industry in Salò is in a much worse state. Factories are abandoned and their land has been turned into public car parks.

What other sectors of the economy do we know? We have already spoken about commerce… And agriculture? I do not know whether agriculture exists in Salò. I do know, however, that someone still practises fishing…

And then there are craftsmen, but few—and elderly.

Yes, the world is changing. We can take two random street-name plaques and compare the skills of the young people of «then» and of «now».

I still do not know how to interpret this:

Even without him, there is order.

At last, an original sign!

But let us return to the lakeside: I promised to go in the opposite direction as well. Following the curve of the bay, we reach the town cemetery: it is practically opposite the historic centre.

This is what the dead see when they get up to go for a walk:

It is the living who fail to appreciate beauty: what is the point of yet another portrait against yet another «lake + mountains» background?

But true connoisseurs are not completely extinct: my readers still exist! So let us see how the Municipality of Salò takes care of its citizens and their guests (that is, us). The benches are of various types, often attractive, but almost always placed in the sun: as a result, 99% of them become unusable in summer. The litter bins, on the other hand, are all of the same style: identical to those found in Genoa.

Unlike the Genoese ones, however, the bins in Salò also exist in a halved version.

Along the lakeside, modern and attractive lampposts have been installed. They differ in shape but share the same style.

Those who live near the lake have a garage suited to the location.

Those who must make do with public parking, instead, can choose between different types of mooring bollards.

Petrol pumps, on the other hand, are the same for everyone.

Each boat has its own numbered berth in the harbour. Once a year, one must renew the tax disc certifying the right to use it. Boat owners collect the discs, which allows us to discover something rather compromising: from 2007 to 2012 the administration’s response was «No bloody way!»

Those who prefer to move around on land can leave their bicycles at one of the few bike racks present in the town. They are few, but at least they guarantee the safety of the front wheel.

Car parking meters are even less widespread, but attractive and «eco-friendly»: they are powered by solar panels.

Vintage cars are parked inside shops.

The youngest visitors are offered the chance to navigate over land using sea-going Smurfs.

The shutters of some buildings are truly strange. But at least they allow one to hide from tourists strange enough to photograph all these things.

And finally we have reached the end! Summing up what has been said so far, I must admit that I expected much more from the town of Salò. But it is worth visiting not only because of its historical fame.