Eugi Gufo's siteEugi Gufo

According to official data, Alessandria is the municipality with the largest territorial extension in the Piedmont region (203.57 km²). This fact, however, should not alarm ordinary tourists of any age and with average athletic preparation.
The city — and especially its historic centre — can be explored comfortably in a single day. In fact, in a single afternoon, to be precise. This does not mean that Alessandria is unattractive, dull or lacking in points of interest. On the contrary, it is rather pleasant and, in certain areas, distinctly unusual. Even its smaller and quieter streets make an agreeable impression.

Along the sides of its numerous squares one encounters several curious features: for instance, sizeable Art Nouveau residential blocks that appear slightly overcommitted to their own presence.

Or monumental palaces that one might not necessarily expect to find in a provincial city. One of the most notable examples is Palazzo Ghilini, built in 1732, enlarged in 1766 and again in the mid-19th century. It now houses the Provincial Administration and the Prefecture.

Equally interesting is the Town Hall, originally constructed in the 18th century, destroyed by bombing in 1944, rebuilt after the war and thoroughly restored between 2019 and 2020. Both of its «rescues» may fairly be regarded as important events for the city. Certain details are particularly noteworthy: not only the clock flanked by two mechanical calendars, but also the historic three-dimensional shop signs at ground level (which, in theory, illuminate after dark).

Despite the abundance of large and elegant buildings, the municipal library and museum share the same — not especially spacious — structure.

Fortunately, Alessandria also possesses smaller and older squares of more modest proportions, consequently calmer, more elegant and, in a sense, less overwhelming. I am referring above all to the square facing the Cathedral.

The Cattedrale di San Pietro is somewhat difficult to capture in full with a standard lens, as the square is rather narrow. I hope this minor inconvenience might serve as further encouragement to visit it in person. It deserves the effort.

The Cathedral contains interesting elements both inside and out — not only historical and artistic features, but also modern and technological ones. For example, the bell tower doubles as a mobile phone antenna, while above the doors one notices stylistically unconventional (though not unattractive) signage.

The entire square merits attentive study, being populated with monuments of varying size, many of them unexpectedly engaging.

Elsewhere in Alessandria one encounters other churches, beautiful and distinctive in their own ways.

Some are small and original; others are larger and more traditionally imposing. All, however, are aesthetically pleasing.

The most beautiful church in Alessandria is also one of the most original I have ever seen anywhere. I sincerely hope it will receive protection equal to that afforded to older and more immediately recognisable monuments.

The municipal stadium — modest, with just 6,000 seats — was built between 1928 and 1929. Aesthetically, it appears to aspire to the status of a cultural institution.

The city administration, however, seems aware of the typical level of cultural enthusiasm among certain visitors. The stretch of road near the entrance is equipped with security railings capable of forming a kind of cage. I am not sure what local supporters think of this arrangement. Nor, of course, whether they deserve it.

Among genuine places of culture, one particularly attractive feature is a primary school in the historic centre.

The monument to Umberto Eco, who was born in Alessandria, is stylistically somewhat unusual. From a distance, I was not immediately able to identify the figure represented.

Across the municipal territory one can observe countless small yet intriguing artistic and architectural details. For example, this is one of the finest trompe-l’œil windows I have ever encountered:

Meanwhile, certain architectural (or perhaps engineering) solutions initially appear to be construction errors.

In the peripheral districts, officially commissioned professional graffiti are extremely popular.

Humans tend to appreciate attempts to embellish their city. Birds do not. I am unsure why pigeons have taken such particular interest in the monument to Urbano Rattazzi, who ended his political career as President of the Provincial Council of Alessandria. Given the monument’s modest artistic quality, one might have expected at least an anti-pigeon system to be installed.

Looking upward, one notices that most street name plaques in Alessandria are pleasant but not especially original. Only in one square did I observe a previously unseen model — featuring gold lettering.

Looking down again, one encounters some rather attractive benches.

Fortunately, no one was sitting — or worse, photographing themselves — on this flashing festive bench. Standards have not yet entirely collapsed.

Some of the city’s more attractive bus shelters have been converted into covered bicycle parking. For reasons unclear, this has occurred only in certain central areas (perhaps demolition was considered too drastic), while in the outskirts no such transformation has taken place.

Pedestrian crossings are often marked with enormous signs, yet are not illuminated — which would have been equally useful.

Among the more successful modern infrastructures is the Ponte Cittadella over the Tanaro River. It is the fourth version of the bridge linking the city with the well-known military Citadel. The previous late-19th-century structure was aesthetically pleasing but suffered irreparable damage during the major flood of 1994. The current bridge, designed by Richard Meier, was inaugurated on 24 October 2016. It is not only elegant but also functional: the pedestrian section is nearly as wide as the carriageway.

Among the city’s most original and indisputable curiosities is the ITIS «Alessandro Volta» technical institute, which possesses slightly dated yet fascinating and extremely rare teaching material — useful preparation for adult life. I envy those students.
[The F-86 K, designed by North American in 1953, was produced both in the USA (120 units) and in Italy (221 units).]

Those wondering what military aviation has to do with Alessandria should note that the navy has even less connection. Yet, as in many inland Italian cities, there is a monument dedicated to Italian sailors. Why? An open question.

Public telephones, meanwhile, still retain a modest reason for existing. Anyone may find themselves with a discharged mobile phone in an unfamiliar city — or country.

Public parks would also be useful in a normal city, but they are surprisingly scarce in Alessandria. The largest, located opposite the railway station, consists of an open space with some trees and benches. It resembles a redeveloped square more than a park. The only particularly charming detail — admittedly very small — is this artificial pond:

At least the main streets are lined with some trees. Upon seeing a row of birches, I almost felt at home.

Having now examined virtually every conceivable aspect of tourist Alessandria, a moderately informed reader may wonder about the conspicuous absence of any serious reference to the military Citadel. A well-known online encyclopaedia claims that this permanent 18th-century fortress is among the best-preserved fortifications of its era in Europe and the only European fortress still embedded in its original environmental context.
For precisely that reason, I have chosen to mention it at the end — as a place both physically and conceptually separate from the city.
The Cittadella di Alessandria is easily reached on foot: once across the aforementioned bridge, a few dozen metres suffice before one finds oneself unexpectedly at the entrance. «Unexpectedly» because, until that moment, the fortification is barely recognisable as such.

Upon entering, the first structure encountered is a stable (or perhaps a wheeled military vehicle garage), with a visibly more recent fountain in front.

Proceeding towards the centre, one observes numerous brick buildings, including the Giuseppe Beleno barracks…

… evidently once administered by someone with highly distinctive aesthetic sensibilities.

Opposite, on the other side of the central square, stands the Giletti barracks.

Its appearance is considerably more traditional (in my admittedly non-professional opinion).

Many other brick buildings remain in varying states of decay. Unfortunately, their original functions are not indicated on site and can only be discovered through plans found online. Consequently, those strongly interested in history would be well advised to visit the Citadel as part of a guided tour, which also grants access to certain interiors.

During my private visit, I observed that some restoration attempts had been initiated in previous years. Unfortunately, these followed what might be termed the vandalistic principle of total economising: aesthetically unfortunate doors and windows wholly unsuited to 18th-century architecture were installed. Through broken panes one can glimpse low-cost tiles — though, at least, the historic stair railings have survived.

The central square of the Citadel is now a large lawn surrounded by trees — a sensible modification, given that it was originally an empty space intended for troop inspection. In general, much of the Citadel can now function as a park: simple, but spacious and suitable for outings with children. I noticed no prohibition against informal sporting activity on the grass.

Sooner or later I shall return to Alessandria to conduct a more serious (and perhaps not entirely self-taught) study of the Citadel and to recount it in greater detail.
For the moment, I conclude by noting that the Citadel is not the city’s only major military structure. Near the centre stands a large former barracks, apparently interesting. At the time of my visit, however, it had been converted into a Covid-19 vaccination centre. I therefore refrained from entering without reason — I had already been vaccinated in Lombardy.

And now I can finally say that I have shown you all the principal things — as seen by me — in Alessandria.