Como, July 2012

One of the first things I noticed after getting off at the terminus of the Milan—Como line (the last of the Como stations) was the railway sign with a black background. At the time I did not yet know that it was simply an imitation of a «1970s style» (I had come up with various political explanations), but I had caught a glimpse of hope that I might find a city full of interesting details.

Well, that hope turned out to be justified: the city of Como, pleasant but without outstanding beauties in the traditional sense, is full of details worth discovering. Its historic centre, although not a clearly defined territorial entity, is attractive mainly because of its overall atmosphere.

Como Cathedral, built between the 14th and 18th centuries, is not particularly impressive: the only part really worth careful study is a section of the façade.

Inside it is somewhat better, but if you do not go in you miss only one thing: the tomb of Alessandro Volta. It is already quite a rarity that a great scientist maintained such good relations with the Church.

And since we are there, we can also admire some beautiful stained-glass windows:

As for military architecture, I must note that very little of the city walls has survived. Essentially, I found only a few towers which, however, were completely empty inside.

So let us move on to more modern details. Near the railway station mentioned above, for example, I found a building with an elevator so «external» that it is connected to the respective floors by small bridges: beautiful.

Graffiti artists decorate the buildings along the railway tracks. I should stress that the following photo was taken almost in the city centre, about 200 metres from the cathedral. And yet I maintain that a well-made graffiti can make even an old building like this look attractive and distinctive.

Local industrial design is no less interesting. Como-style death is beautiful:

Local industry, however, has now almost completely disappeared. All the industrial buildings I came across in the city now house gyms and various shops.

But I assume that many readers would rather see the lakeside promenade. I will indulge you, while at the same time warning you that it is nothing exceptional: it is a purely tourist space, made up of bars, restaurants, villas, hotels, boats and, lastly, «loser benches». In reality, real losers, rich or poor alike, want to feel as if they are in Switzerland, so on the lakeshore they have built a fountain that reminds me of another one…

A section of the lakeside is dedicated to a certain Sergio Ramelli. Perhaps I have been inattentive until now, but this is the first time I have encountered in Italy a dedication of this kind to a right-wing figure.

The «Monument to European Resistance» is a heap of concrete and bronze. I thought only Russia was capable of building things this disgusting.

The objects installed to improve the daily life of living people are made much better. The local model of litter bin, for example, is attractive and equipped with a convenient ashtray. Unfortunately, bins in Como are very rare and often rusty.

Only in one square did I spot a model I have never seen anywhere else in the world:

Street lamps are often fitted with reflectors/light diffusers: they look good even when switched off.

The most common benches and bicycle racks:

A typical Como urban public transport stop:

The intercity coach station:

The square used for the city market is equipped with bollards with electrical sockets that «grow» out of the ground when needed.

A tiny advertising noticeboard: this type of structure is quite common in Como.

A very cool entrance to a multi-storey car park:

Well, I have shown you almost all the most interesting things in Como. It remains to be noted that at railway stations they still use blackboards and chalk for various announcements…

One last thing to underline: within the city of Como there are three FS railway stations, so for a certain stretch trains run right through ordinary city streets (as in Sesto San Giovanni):

Anyone who has made it to the end is a hero.